She called me the day before and asked if I would have liked, while On-Air, to also share a couple of pasta recipes. “Of course,” I answered. ‘Where there is pasta there is Gabe.’

Jan and Her Loving Mother

Although us Tuscans eat less pasta than our compatriots in other parts of Italy, the pasta dishes that can be found in Florence and its surroundings are both simple and delicious.

Fresh egg pasta is made throughout Tuscany. In the north, filled pasta such as tortelli and ravioli are common, a reflection of the cuisines of neighboring Emilia-Romagna and Liguria respectively. The filling depends again on location and season, with chestnuts, cheese, potatoes, spinach, other cultivated greens, nettles and herbs taking precedence. To the south of the region, particular in Siena, pici, a rustic type of hand-made spaghetti, is popular.

But also produced in the area of Siena and Grosseto are ‘Gnudi’ (pronounced nyoo-dee ) a classic Tuscan dish of rare simplicity and flavors. One of the few that I have always equally loved eating and cooking with our clients raving about it.

“Jan,” I yelled over the phone “Screw the pasta, we are making an X-rated dish called Gnudi.”

In The Making

That wasn’t true. We didn’t end up ‘screwing’ the pasta. We actually made some wonderful Truffle Tagliolini with Mascarpone Cheese and Pine nuts but the gnudi were definitely where everybody’s attention was on!

Yes, I agree with you. The name sounds like something you might have done on a remote beach and maybe some of us actually have (that’s why I spend my summers in Europe)! In fact, in Italian, gnudi means what it sounds like in English: naked.

It refers to little pasta-like dumplings that are “naked” of their pasta wrapper, raviolis without anything to enclose them. Gnudi are a bit like gnocchi, but they have far less flour and so are pillowy in the way that gnocchi never are. A type of dumpling also called malfatti (“badly made” in Italian, because of their sloppy shape) is made from fresh high quality ricotta and spinach, the same ingredients commonly used as the filling for ravioli or tortelli. A little bit of salt, pepper, nutmeg, a couple of eggs to bind everything together and…PRONTO!

The sauce? Dress them with a simple butter and sage sauce and sprinkle them with a good shave of Parmigiano Reggiano. You are golden.

Buon Appetito

Gnudi

Let’s be honest. Most everyone likes the concept of gnocchi, but being especially prone to overkneading and overcooking, gnocchi can be a hard, chewy downer. Gnocchi lovers often mention the word ‘pillowy’ when gushing about it, but pillowy gnocchi is a rare experience.

And this is why I wanted to finally share this recipe. These little melt-in-your-mouth dumplings have created something of a culinary craze among our clients and friends always raising the question “What’s in it?!”.

Now you know. Go in the kitchen and try to make some nude Italian gnocchi.

Can’t wait to see what kind of readers are going to stumble across my blog now that the words “nude Italian” are on here…

GNUDI

RICOTTA SPINACH NUDE GNOCCHI

gnudi

• 500g (1lb 2oz) spinach, coarse stalks removed
• 450g (3/4 cup) ricotta cheese
• 100g (scant 1 cup) grated pecorino cheese, plus extra for serving
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• freshly grated nutmeg
• 100g (generous ¾ cup) plain (all purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
• 50g (1/4 cup) butter
• 10-12 sage leaves
• salt and pepper

Put the spinach with just the water clinging to the leaves after washing into a large pan. Cook over low heat, turning over or twice for about 3 minutes, until wilted. Drain well, squeezing out as much liquid as possible, and chop very finely. Tip into a bowl and stir in the ricotta, pecorino cheese, eggs and flour. Add the nutmeg and season with salt and pepper.

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Turn down the heat so that the water is now only gently simmering. Using a teaspoon, shape small rounded dumplings from the ricotta mixture, dust with four and add to the pan.

Cook in batches for 2-3 minutes until they float to the surface Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper (paper towel) and transfer to warmed serving dish. Melt butter with sage in another pan until lightly brown then pour this over the dumplings, generously sprinkle with pecorino cheese or Parmesan and serve.

CHEF TIPS

• The spinach must always be cooked in boiling salted water because in this way it maintains its green colour.

• The dough must be worked rapidly to avoid the flour becoming sticky.

• The water must only simmer to stop the “gnudi” disintegrating.

• You can pass the gnudi from the boiling water directly to the butter and sage pan and sauté them for 1 minute. Turn off the heat, add the cheese to the pan and serve. 

Simple food and wonderful friends. This dinner at the cottage is one to be remembered.

“Enchant, stay beautiful and graceful, but do this, eat well. Bring the same consideration to the preparation of your food as you devote to your appearance. Let your dinner be a poem, like your dress.” 
Charles Pierre Monselet, French author (1825-1888)
‘Letters to Emily’

The last eight days in New York City were as inspiring as they have ever been. The food, better than I ever tasted. The charm and energy as lively as i have ever seen. I tried to remember how many times i visited the city in my life. Twelve times if i recall correctly, but each journey is something unique, something that is and will be engraved permanently in my mind. Something that to my eyes never looks alike.

Cooking Demo at Roger's Garden

Now that i am back in the Valley of the Sun for a couple of days, between catching up with mail, crafting menus and quotes for clients, and advancing the pile of dirty laundry I have to take care of, I found the time to gather all my good friends for an early Italian Thanksgiving dinner. This evening the menu will read homemade lasagna, pig roast over mascarpone polenta, braised fennel, roasted brussels sprouts and of course…short ribs.

I love braised short ribs for three reasons: one, they’re unstoppably, almost obscenely good; two, they’re impossible to screw up; and three, they require no hands-on time once the guests arrive. Entertaining, for me, is all about not having to start from zero once the guests arrive. Chopping and blanching and reducing – and sweating — while my friends stand in the kitchen, hungry, with one eye on the clock. It’s about having a glass of Barbera and diving into a dinner that is ready to go, but that also feels simultaneously casual and special. And when everything goes right, you can almost forget — for a few hours, at least that you have to be awake at 5:30 the next morning to make ravioli from scratch for 150 people.

Beef Short Ribs

By the way, if you’ve never heard of beef short ribs, the best cuts come from the lower (ventral) section, between the 6th and 10th rib, often called the short plate.  The short plate is what gives them their name (not the fact that they are short).  The meat itself is on top of the bone, about 1-2″ in height.  Make sure to select a package with meaty hunks as lots of times they are packaged with more hidden fatty pieces inside.

Perfect for the holidays, i hope you will find this recipe as comforting as i do. In the cold months of the year, with a good glass of Chianti and paired with truffled mashed potatoes, short ribs are all your guests could ask for.

Happy Holiday Seasons friends!

‘BRASATO AL BAROLO’ 

BAROLO BRAISED SHORT RIBS OVER TRUFFLED MASHED POTATOES 

Brasato al Barolo

Short ribs

• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 16-ounce beef short ribs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 cups Barolo, or other full-bodied red wine
• 1 16-ounce can of peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand with their juices
• 1 cup brown chicken stock
• ½ bunch thyme
• ½ bunch rosemary
• ½ bunch oregano

Gremolata

• Leaves from 1 bunch of flat leaf parsley
• Zest of two lemons, cut into julienne strips
• ¼ pound fresh horseradish, grated

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F

In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over high heat until smoking. Season the ribs with salt and pepper and cook them over high heat until deep brown all on sides, about 15 minutes total.
Remove the short ribs to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, onion, celery and garlic to the pan and cook over high heat until browned and softened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the red wine, tomatoes and juices, chicken stock and herbs, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge the brown bits. Bring the mixture to a boil and return the short ribs to the pan. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender and literally falling off the bones.

To make the gremolata:
In a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest and horseradish and toss loosely by hand.

Place one short rib in each bowl, top with a little of the pan juices and a handful of the gremolata, and serve immediately.

TRUFFLED MASHED POTATOES

• 4 pounds white potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 cup half and half
• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• ½ cup of grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 1 tablespoon white truffle oil*
• 1 teaspoon chopped black truffles (optional)*

*White truffle oil and black truffles are available at Italian markets, specialty foods stores and some supermarkets.

Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling salted water until very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain. Return potatoes to pot. Stir over medium heat until excess moisture evaporates, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Add half and half, butter, olive oil and truffle oil, parmesan cheese. Mash until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in chopped truffles, if desired. Transfer to bowl and serve.

After spending two weeks in Heavenly Sicily  i lost count of the number of Cannoli i enjoyed during my trip. Needless to say that a good Cannolo should

ALWAYS be filled with the ricotta just moments before being eaten in order to prevent the shell to become soggy.

The Sicilian cannolo is one of the most famous Italian sweets in the world. Contrary to what most people believe, these delicious ricotta-cream filled wafers have been around for a long, long time. During his time spent in Sicily as a Roman queastor, Cicero fell in love with a predecessor of the modern cannolo. He described the dessert as a tube stuffed with a sweet, milk-based filling.

According to some accounts, however, the creation of modern cannoli came as a result of the Arabs who once controlled Sicily. This satisfying sweet was likely created inside a Muslim harem in the city of Kalt El Nissa, modern-day Caltanissetta. In this harem, the women spent their time preparing this delicacy.
In fact, it may very well have been on of these women who modified a preexisting Arab dessert made with ricotta, almonds and honey to fit Cicero’s description. In doing so, she created what is now known throughout the world as Sicilian cannoli.

Below i am happy to share with you our ORIGINAL recipe for a perfect Cannoli. Do not be afraid. It is not a difficult dessert to make. However, you need to make sure that all the ingredients (especially the ricotta) are fresh and as good as they can get. I would try and get your cheese from a local farmer rather than at the store.

Let us know how they turned out.

Buon Appetito Amici!

For filling

Cannoli alla Siciliana

• 2 lb ricotta cheese, (preferably from sheep)
• 1 lb sugar
• milk to taste
• vanilla to taste
• cinnamon to taste
• 3 ½ oz mixed candied fruit, diced
• 3 ½ oz dark chocolate, chopped

Garnish

• pistachio, reduced to grains
• confectioners sugar

For the wafers

• 7 oz all-purpose flour
• 1 oz cocoa powder
• 1 oz sugar
• 2 eggs
• ¾ oz butter
• salt to taste
• 1 tablespoon Marsala wine, or Rum
• lard, or frying olive oil to taste

30 minutes preparation + 30 minutes cooking

To make the crispy wafers, mix together the flour, cocoa powder, melted butter and eggs in a bowl. Then add the Marsala, or if you prefer, the rum. Continue mixing until the dough is smooth, then wrap it in plastic wrap and let it rest for half an hour.

Roll out the cannoli dough and cut it into squares, about 4 inches per side. Then wrap the squares around the metal tubes to shape the cannoli. Fry the dough, still wrapped around the tubes, in a large pot of boiling lard or olive oil. Let the cannoli cool on paper towels. Once cool, slide out the metal tubes.

To make the ricotta-based filling, with a fork the ricotta and sugar, adding a bit of milk and a dash of vanilla extract and cinnamon. Pass the mixture through a sieve and blend in diced candied fruit and bits of dark chocolate.

Fill the crispy dough with the ricotta filling and sprinkle the crushed pistacchio nuts over the ends (or you can sprinkle shaved chocolate) . Sprinkle the outside with powdered sugar.

The cannoli should be filled right before serving: after a few hours they tend to become soft and lose that nice crunchiness which is the main feature of this dessert’s deliciousness and attraction.

Coming ashore with just 1,000 men, the revolutionary leader fought his way across country to unite Italy as a new nation state.

Yet had he chosen to stay in this corner of the island a while longer he could have enjoyed some of its fine food and wine, beautiful rugged coastline and abundance of ancient sights. Of course, if he had then modern Italy would not be celebrating its 150th birthday this year.

Once king and country had been established, Garibaldi did return to Marsala, paying a visit to the town’s famous Florio winery in 1862 – as a plaque on the wall testifies. “Some people say this place is like a museum, I say it’s more like a cathedral,” says Florio’s director of exports Marcelo, as he gestures towards its lofty ceilings while looking at me. Giant 100-year-old casks tower above us, giving off a mellow aroma of oak and ageing wine.

Marsala made its way onto the world stage in the 18th-century thanks to the ingenuity of British merchant John Woodhouse. A fortified wine similar to Port, its ability to withstand long ocean voyages made it ideal for export, and Marsala was soon being stocked on the ships of Nelson’s navy.

However, in recent years producers have had to work hard to rescue Marsala’s reputation as a mere cooking ingredient and even an energy drink (when mixed with eggs and sugar).

“Those days are over,” tells me Marcello proudly. “No young Marsala is a true Marsala. We age our wines for at least four years.” Available in varying levels of sweetness, Marsala goes perfectly with Sicilian almonds and cheeses, and the dry, complex aged wines we try make a delicious digestif.

Enjoying the wine in the place where it’s made, it’s easy to imagine the British taking the drink and this corner of Sicily to their hearts. Prosperous families like the Whitakers and Inghams arrived and built their villas and estates around the town. On the nearby island of San Pantaleo, the Whitakers’ summer residence is today a museum, which stands amid the remains of a vast Phoenician settlement – an ancient staging post and center for salt extraction that remains to this day.

Bread

Fichi D'India - Cactus Figs

Boats

Isole Eolie

Agrigento

Riserva Dello Zingaro

navigando

Sailing Away

Faraglioni

TRAPANI AND BEYOND

All along the coast from Marsala to the provincial capital, Trapani, lie row upon row of salt pans, each pool a different hue according to its salinity. Boats to San Pantaleo leave from outside the Ettore e Infersa salt works, where a beautifully restored Dutch windmill operates each summer. The local industry is now mechanised, but workers here still bring in the harvest by hand, heaping the salt into conical mounds by wheelbarrow. It sounds like tough work but then Trapani salt is considered to be the best in Italy.

In fact it’s so good that some Sicilians eat it for breakfast. At Pensione Tranchina, in the fishing hamlet of Scopello, owners Marisin and Salvatore serve a spread of fresh local products, which includes bread for dipping into their homemade olive oil with a liberal sprinkling of the coarse crystals. Haven.

Guests gather each night in the dining room for home-cooked meals, which include calamari marinated in Marsala and stuffed with pine nuts, currants and pecorino cheese. Marisin explains the nifty way the locals land their catch. “The calamari are attracted to the light, so the fishermen use flashing bulbs on their lines to get them to the surface,” she says.

Traditions are never far away in these parts, and neither is nature. The most popular swimming spot in Scopello is down by the old tuna fishery, where parts of Hollywood crime caper Ocean’s Twelve were shot. It’s part of the Zingaro nature reserve, boasting hidden coves for snorkling and a cornucopia of plants and wildlife.

Back in the city, Trapani offers a compact old town, with baroque facades and ancient churches to discover. It’s a town steeped in traditions, one of which can be observed at the Chiesa del Purgatorio. This church is filled with huge religious figures that are carried on the shoulders of the faithful during the city’s fervent Easter processions.

Once you’ve seen Trapani, investigate the nearby countryside. The landscapes here are ethereal, with mountains capped by whisps of cloud framing sweeping valleys of fertile farmland. It’s not normally advisable on any trip to leave the highway and attempt to get lost, but in western Sicily it’s well worth going off the beaten track – and you won’t find a car or soul in sight.

Various farmstays and villas offer a great way to wake up to this kind of vista each morning. Just off the main road between Trapani and Palermo we drop in at Cantine Virzì, a winery and boutique hotel run by some friends of us, the Spadafora family. Their former sharecroppers’ apartments overlook fields of vines, harvested each summer by hand. With space for just 14 guests and a location literally in the middle of nowhere, it’s a peaceful escape for a few days swimming in the pool and drinking the wines – they even left a free bottle in my fridge. Cant beat that.

Mercato Centrale Palermo

Vendesi

Capers

Mercato

Pesce

Butcher

Mercato Della Frutta

AFRICAN FLAVOURS

Crowning the tip of the Golfo di Castellammare – a vast sweeping bay on the north coast – is the pretty town of San Vito Lo Capo. The fine sandy beach here “feels like Rio” (according to our Brazilian friend André), thanks to its backdrop of brooding mountains. The residents also go crazy for couscous – restaurants serving the dish line the beach, and the annual Cous Cous Fest (20–25 September) draws chefs from around the world for carnival-style cook-offs.

It may seem an odd bedfellow of lasagne, but that’s because this North African dish was brought over by the Arabs who ruled Sicily from 965 to 1072AD. Today the steamed semolina is a staple of western Sicily’s diet, taking pride of place in homes and restaurants.

One such place is Trapani’s Cantina Siciliana, where delicately spiced couscous is topped with fish and drenched in a warming fish broth of cinnamon, garlic, almonds and tomatoes. It’s total comfort food. This authentic trattoria also stocks over 500 Sicilian wines. Another local dish is the tuna, arriving in a variety of guises – from salty cured bresaola to the more acquired bottarga (eggs). Usually only served fresh in season (May to June), it’s one of the world’s most highly prized species and is coveted by everyone from Sicilian mammas to Japanese sushi chefs.

Pesce Spada

Lunch at the house

Granita Siciliana

Caponata

Mercato

Cartellone

Cavoli Verdi

SEGESTA AND ERICE: SWEET SIGHTS

Sicily’s winemaking traditions date back to the Greek communities that once dominated the island. To glimpse into their past, head to Segesta and some of Sicily’s best classical remains. A well-preserved temple crowns a picturesque hillside of wild flowers, while on an adjacent peak an amphitheatre and Norman castle ruins offer views to the sea. It’s like a slice of Athens dropped in Italy. Although some believe the Elymians, an ancient tribe that built the temple around 2,500 years ago, may have been refugees from Troy.

The Elymians also populated Erice, a walled city perched on a mountaintop overlooking Trapani. Phoenicians, Arabs and Normans also made their way up this 750m-high peak, which today you can reach by cable car. The beautiful, narrow streets have an almost eerie medieval feel, and here you’ll see fairy-tale castles and stunning views that stretch out as far as Tunisia.

In ancient times Erice was the centre of the cult of Venus, but today your best vice would have to be the sweets of Maria Grammatico, known throughout Italy for her sugary almond treats. One thing’s for sure, if Garibaldi – whom the Brits named a biscuit after – had been tempted by anything like these it could all have been a different story.

Agrigento

Olive Trees

Siracusa

Agrigento

Palermo

Castello Normanno

Risotto Rituals

I remember raising a forkful of my mother’s risotto to my lips. I would close my eyes and savor the moment, then reopen them wide in surprise as the simple, clean flavors exploded and melded with balance and grace. This would happen with each taste of a new recipe, as my delight and ecstasy multiplied at each new discovery.

After 12 years in the profession my enthusiasm for food hasn’t dwindled, but I have become a bit spoiled. Like most native Italians (and chefs) I know I’m eating some of the best dishes in the world, but I’m so used to it that wouldn’t expect or tolerate anything inferior. Less and less often do I find myself widening my eyes in wonder, as I taste a forkful of ‘pasta al pesto’, of ‘risotto milanese’, or ‘focaccia genovese’. The full enjoyment is still there, just not the element of surprise.

Every now and then, however, a dish will appear and transport me back to those first few years, those first few bites of shock and wonder, and truly shake my senses. This happened with more than one tasting while touring Sicily this year (a nice post about the beautiful island of Sicily is in order), the most memorable of which was a classic ‘Risotto al Pomodoro’ or tomato risotto (Video & Recipe at the end of the post)

I watched all the risotto presentations with interest because it’s a dish I absolutely adore both, the eating and making of it and am always curious regarding each chef’s technique and tips.

I must say in fact, that each chef, including myself, is adamant about his own technique, and there are some highly contested issues surrounding risotto. Some say the soffritto must be prepared separately from the rice or the onion will be inevitably burned and bitter, others insist this is a useless variation from the traditional recipe. Some maintain that wine is an imperative ingredient in all risottos, while others argue it lends undue acidity. Some say all the broth should be added at once, while others stress it should be added only a little bit at a time.

But most important ‘Risotto al Pomodoro’ it’s a humble dish which doesn’t much inspire the imagination, yet if done well is the positive metamorphosis of one of childhoods most detested foods, so often overcooked and watery in school cafeterias. As you grow older it is easy to continue to reject and despise the mere idea of it, partly because perfecting a risotto with tomato as the main ingredient is not exactly an easy task. Funny, though, how the exact opposite happens with pasta and pizza. The tomato in fact, almost seems to reject rice.

Risotto needs to be absolutely perfect. It is such a simple dish, a far cry from some of the other exotic and wildly creative inventions I had tried countless times. Yet, there is something so surprising, so intoxicating about the burst of familiar flavors. The rice needs to be perfectly al dente; the flavor needs to be MORE than tomato alone, but rather the quintessence of tomato-ness. And a small dollop of fresh basil and Mascarpone cheese is the perfect twist and bright compliment without overwhelming the integrity of the whole.

When, sitting in the sun at the Osteria’s table overlooking the Ionian Sea I opened my eyes, they were wide with wonder. I turned to my friend whose expression was also a mask of surprise and utter pleasure. “Wow.” I mumbled, suddenly at a loss for words.

I felt like a kid again, running in my mother’s kitchen, sitting at the family table waiting for the next big surprise in a strange land of unending gastronomic surprises.

THE 5 SECRETS OF RISOTTO

The route to risotto perfection is scattered with obstacles, but these five steps will make your dish an impeccable one.

Step 1: Soffritto

Every great risotto starts with a good soffritto: sautéing onions in butter or olive oil. Butter is really for it to taste better, but oil is what I usually use… At this stage, you will also want to add ingredients that are particularly “sturdy”, e.g. will be able to sustain cooking at high temperatures for almost 20 minutes. Not many ingredients are in this category, other than dried mushrooms and meat. I like risotto with peas and sausages, so I add sausage at this stage, and peas toward the end.

Step 2: Tostatura

Tostatura comes from the verb meaning “to toast” and it refers to the rice grains. You will add your rice to the soffritto with no liquid, so that each grain gets warmed up. This is where picking the right rice becomes really important (‘Carnaroli’ or ‘Arborio’ rice are perfect for risotto as well as ‘Vialone Nano’! Tostatura will ensure uniform cooking of the grain, so it’s a fairly important step. Make sure all the rice is nicely toasted, and then you can add a glass of wine and stir till it evaporates completely before moving to the next step.

Step 3: Stock

First of all, don’t use water- use stock. Stock is very flavorful and it will ensure a perfect end result, and it can be prepared in just 20 minutes if you have shrimps shells (for fish stock), chicken bones or just a few vegetables to throw in a pot. It’s seriously worth your time, although I will never admit in public I sometimes use bouillon dissolved in hot water…

Stock will be added slowly, one ladle at the time, and replenished when it is almost completely absorbed by the rice. Stock addition needs to be accompanied by continuous stirring, so that the temperature is maintained constant and each grain gets the same exposure.

Step 3Bis: Ingredients

The important part of risotto comes in about 2 thirds of the way in the cooking process: asparagus (the harder stems can be added at the beginning, the softer tips at this stage), peas, fresh mushrooms- your only boundary is availability of ingredients, as almost anything can be paired in a risotto!

Step 4: Resting

In order to prepare risotto for serving, you first need to give it a break. This means taking the rice off the heat when the rice grains are still a bit al dente and let it rest, without stirring. The process allows the temperature to come down and to prepare risotto for the last and most important step of them all.

Step 5: Mantecatura

Manteca is Spanish for butter. It is said that this process was originally adopted during the Spanish ruling of Lombardia during the Renaissance. At this stage, you will do what you can to emulsify the rice and give its creamy consistence that makes for a great risotto all’onda- beat in really cold butter cubes and cheese (most of the times Parmigiano) till you reach the right texture. This is an intense process that will leave your arm hurting, but you will be rewarded by the wonderful sound a risotto mantecato makes in the pot (a deep tonf tonf) and perfection in the plate for you and your dinner guests.

… IT WAS ALL A JOKE

 The history of risotto is naturally tied to the history of rice in Italy. While there are many conflicting opinions on the historical intricacies, rice was first introduced to Italy and Spain by the Arabs during the Middle Ages.

The humidity of the Mediterranean was quickly found to be perfect for growing shorter-grained rices, and enormous profits were made by those selling rice in Genoa, Venice and the surrounds.

The popularity of rice grew through Italy, though primarily among the wealthy owing to the still-exorbitant prices of the product.

Once the outside world discovered the quality of the Italian product, however, the money poured in and the availability of the short-grains spread, making the rice far more widely accessible.

It was in Milan where the rice met its delicious destiny. Milan had been under Spanish rule for almost two centuries (hence the similar evolution of paella in Spain), and rice had become a staple. Slow-cooking also dominated the culinary landscape of the region, with Ossobucco a long-held favourite.

Fast-forward to the year 1574, and the Grand Gothic Cathedral Duomo Di Milano was in the process of being built. Valerius the young apprentice was charged with the task to produce the stained glass needed to finish off the Cathedral. Town’s folk poked fun at Valerius claiming that it was Saffron that he had used to promote the brilliant colors in the glass.

Tired of the continual ribbing from the townspeople, Valerius vowed to get even, and placed large quantities of Saffron in the rice of a main wedding dish for his master. This rice did not fail as predicted by Valerius as a matter of fact; this rice became a smash hit with all who ate it. From this point on risotto and its brilliant history were born, and people all through the land were enjoying this rice with Saffron as a main course of a meal.

The slow-cooking principles were combined with the local rice, emphasising the rich flavours, and spices (particularly saffron) for which the area was known, to create ‘Risotto alla Milanese’

Served by itself, or as an accompaniment to Ossobucco and other dishes, risotto was discovered to be an excellent way of using the shorter-grained rice, the starchy component of the dry grain mixing with the stock to create a thick, creamy sauce.

And that’s how everything started.

RISOTTO AL POMODORO

TOMATO RISOTTO WITH FRIED SAGE and MASCARPONE

Serves 4

For Tomatoes Sauce

A Nice Twist; 'Risotto al Pomodoro' with Burrata cheese

• 1 28-oz can of peeled whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano tomatoes
• 1 celery stick, finely minced
• 1 small carrot, finely minced
• 1 small chopped red onion

For Risotto

• 1 cup finely chopped  red onion
• handful of basil leaves
• 1/2 clove of garlic, peeled and very finely min
• chicken broth
• 1 1/2 cups (280 g) risotto rice (arborio or carnaroli)
• 1 and ½ tbsp of mascarpone cheese
• extra virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
• salt, pepper
• thyme
• sage (previously fried)
• Teaspoon of sugar
• 1 glass of white wine

FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE

Combine the tomatoes, celery, carrots, chopped onion 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a pot over medium-low heat. Bring to a boil and lower to a slow simmer, stirring occasionally. Let cook for 1-2 hours, until all the liquid has been absorbed and you are left with a thick, velvety tomato sauce. Add the fresh cut basil and set aside. You can prepare this a day ahead and it will be even more flavorful.

FOR THE RISOTTO

Pour chicken broth into a small pot and bring to an almost-simmer. Heat a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a wide stainless steal or heavy aluminum pot over medium-low heat and add the half onion. Stir for several minutes to distribute the flavor until the onion is translucent but do not allow the onion to turn brown. Add the rice and toast, stirring constantly for several minutes, or until the rice becomes shiny and of a very light brown.

Add a glass of white wine and let evaporate. Then, add a ladleful of hot chicken broth, a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of sugar to offset the acidity of the tomatoes and stir in the tomato sauce and continue to cook, stirring constantly until absorbed.

Continue to add broth, a couple of ladlefuls at a time, stirring constantly. If the rice becomes too dry and begins to stick, add another ladleful of broth. Depending on the rice, the total cooking time should be between 15-20 minutes. You want the rice to be al dente, and it should have enough liquid to make “waves” if you shake the pot then stir in the Parmesan cheese. Add the mascarpone cheese, a tablespoon of olive oil, cracked pepper and gently stir.

Taste and adjust the salt as needed. Cover the risotto with the pot lid and call everyone to the table. To serve, spoon the risotto into individual plates and garnish with a couple of leafs of fresh sage that you previously deep fried. Sprinkle with Parmesan Cheese.

Buon Appetito!

It was a curse.

Circumstances have conspired to scuttle plans again and again. Remember how the lead character in the movie “It’s A Wonderful Life”, George Bailey (Jimmy Stewart), kept getting stuck in Bedford Falls just as he was getting ready to see the world? Like that.

Of course moving to the States seven years ago has changed the logistics a little, too. As in doubling airfare, inspiring an abject horror of long flights, and changing my view of canals from “quaint and beautiful” to “quaint and beautiful latent the flood of tourists”.

However, since a fire brought down the Fenice opera house 10 years ago,Venice has suffered from crumbling palazzos, rising tides and its worst publicity since Napolean rode through town.

But that’s all changing.

In fact, the great influx of artists, actors and creative people, the opening of amazing new local restaurants and the refurbishing of hotels, design and modernism is making tourists and Italians paddling back.

The city that everyone said was sinking is in fact on the rise.

Venice

Now, the curse has been lifted. The heavens have aligned and I was able to, after a short visit to Milan visiting a few old friends, feel again the beauty and splendor of this city with its old charming buildings and, luckily for me, a very interesting ‘Biennale di Venezia’ and ‘Venice Film Festival’ to check out.

But there is also, a deeper and more honest, reason why I like to go to Venice that being the ability of making the best Spritzs I have ever tasted. Their ‘National Drink’, as I like to call it, it’s a must for residents and tourists alike for which it takes on a very interesting meaning.

In fact the Venetian Spritz is not, shall we say, an “important” thing. Drink. Whatever. It’s red, for crying out loud, and composed of any unassuming white wine, sparkling water, and your choice of mixer: Aperol, Select, or bitter (Campari, SanBitter or even the herby Cynar). Although the first Spritzes filtered down from Austria and were made with white wine and seltzer only, the newer, flashier red version is a Campari creation that has become a Venetian (and Veneto) habit: It is not just a drink, but a way of life.

A way of life that I have been always embracing even if not from Venice.

Spritz

That appealing shade of florescent orangish-red, however, makes the Spritz extraordinarily entertaining; when you witness late afternoon Venetian sunlight angling through the glass, firing it the color of icy embers, ti viene la voglia – it just makes you want one.

It would seem obvious, then, that you should order at least one Spritz during your stay, if for no other reason than to stare in compagnia, to hang out and blend in. It’s even safe to “try this at home” (although I must to warn you: it won’t be the same).

Thanks in no small part to furious commercial efforts on the part of Campari (who also produce Aperol and Cynar, fancy that), this unpretentious, borderline silly libation is aiming to be the National Drink of Italy. But the Spritz (or ‘Spriss’ in Venessiàn) will always be best enjoyed on its home turf, perhaps Al Chioscchetto on the Zattere, as the sun retreats and the Giudecca Canal sloshes vigorously before you, while everyone at surrounding tables sips theirs, chattering away, catching up with a friend they’ve connected with by chance or by appointment, in who-knows what language. Maybe there’s live music; maybe not.

The Spritz fa il suo effetto (has its effect) on most everyone who tries it; and the result is una marea of requests for the recipe; and although I’d rather recommend a good wine, it just makes sense to post it once and for all. Evvia.

My favorite Venetian Spritz recipe is stamped on a canvas at the famous  ‘Harry’s Bar’ (which you should absolutely pay a visit to..)

Recipe

ONE FINAL NOTE: Don’t forget, when ordering your Spritz, you must specify the mixer. For example, “Spritz con Aperol,” “Spritz with Select” (pronounced SELect), etc. If you don’t, you’ll be asked which you prefer.

* Aperol (made by Campari) has now decided a Spritz is made by combining it with Prosecco, which is convenient in that it supports Prosecco production and can reduce the number of Spritz ingredients to two (or creates a too-fizzy concoction). The hold-outs among us prefer the original, and to enjoy our Prosecco in purezza, by itself.

Wine Tasting at IL BORRO

to properly do all of that.

For the last few weeks my philosophy has been: Why having one gelato when you can have two? Why only order that bottle of wonderful SanGiovese when you can try that white Trebbiano from north Italy as well? It’s summer I know BUT how could I have passed on homemade pappardelle with duck ragout and fresh Tortelli Mugellani with wild boar? And since I am here, why don’t I try that mouth-watering bbq rabbit with fennel?

Just to give you an idea, everything in the paragraph above happened at dinner last night while visiting ‘Osteria del Milione’, owned by a good friend of mine (we come from the same culinary institute) where I got totally spoiled. Multiply that for the last couple of weeks and here you have the essence of my trip: ‘To appreciate and re-discover my very own Italian regional cuisine and doing so by gaining the fewest pounds possible’.

That should be the mission statement I swear by.

However, I am not here to compromise. If nourishing the passion I have for living, eating, drinking and traveling means taking on a few pounds…well, I am up for the challenge.

Regardless It has been great to see my land again, to experience those very same flavors that inspire my cuisine and myself so much. I took a few days off and went to the Mugello area of Tuscany. The weather gifted us with a picture-perfect blue sky, yellow and green fields, sunflowers, cypresses and the classic tile roofs Tuscany is so famous for.

Then had a taste of my friend Salvatore Ferragamo’s wines at ‘Il Borro’, a beautiful estate in the middle of the Tuscan countryside. He kindly took us for a tour of the private cellars and showed us the wine production.

The ‘Polissena’, a 100% SanGiovese, was absolutely stunning. So smooth and easy to drink; sophisticated yet not pretentious. Perfectly balanced was also their Chardonnay (which I am not usually a fan of) but totally different from any Chardonnay you may have tried before. Lightly balanced, fruity but not heavy. A Perfect refreshment for a summer day.

Give them a try. You will be hooked.

And then, last week, I went for a few days to the coast where the ocean and the white sands meet the pine trees, the rolling hills sunflowers fields. The most hidden side of this beautiful region.

I got there early in the morning when the little ocean town was just waking up. In a few hours a few dozens of boats/ships were already making their way in and out the port.

During the day, I sat there looking at the light changing. The colors of the water changing. A hint of a light breeze. Magnificent paintings that appear on the blue surface.

The idyllic smell of the fennel plants growing wildly along the shore reminded me of my childhood. A very familiar smell, as important in my life as it has been in my cooking.

Everything was capturing my glance, becoming ingrained in my mind forever.

That night, before stopping by my parents’ home, I visited the market picked up a few fennel bulbs, some leeks a couple of potatoes and treated them to a gently warm ‘Goat Cheese & Fennel Soup’ (recipe is below).

As we were eating, silence dropped at the dinner table. We were all concentrating on our plates. Each spoon full of memories.

It was like being a child again, running with my bicycle, rolling in the grass, smelling the wild fennel plants growing in the gardens.

IL BORRO wine cellar

Lunch

Mugello

GOAT CHEESE AND FENNEL SOUP

Warm Fennel Soup

• 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
• 2 cups sliced leeks (white and pale green parts only)
• 2 bulbs of fennel, fronds reserved for garnish
• 4 14 1/2-ounce cans low-salt chicken broth
• 2 pounds red-skinned potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
• 2 cloves of garlic
• little grated nutmeg
• 1 tbs of butter
• One stick of goat cheese

Serves 4

Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add leeks and cook until leeks are translucent, about 7 minutes. Add broth and potatoes and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. In the meantime slice fennel into quarters and steam with garlic for circa 25 minutes. Simmer soup until potatoes are very tender, about 25 minutes and then add the cook fennel and garlic cloves. Working in batches, purée soup in blender. Return to same pot add the cream and the goat cheese and stir until melted. Rewarm soup if necessary. Season with salt and pepper and a little bit of nutmeg. Add a splash of lemon juice and adjust the seasoning. Ladle soup into bowls; garnish with reserved fennel fronds and serve.

At the market

ABOUT FENNEL

With its anise-like flavor and aroma, fennel is on of the oldest cultivated plants and much valued by the Romans. Warriors took it to keep good health, while their ladies took it to stave off obesity.

The bulb, the foliage and the seeds of the fennel plant have their own place in Tuscan cuisine. The leaves are used to flavor pork, veal and fish dishes. They are also used in making fish stock, for making sauces and stuffing, to add flavor to butter and salad dressings and in making mayonnaise. The dried stalks are sometimes placed under grilled or barbecued fish for getting a uniquely flavored dish. The seeds are used as a spice especially in breads sausages and sliced meets like ‘Finocchiona’, a spicer, softer and more aromatic salami we make here in Florence.

A perfect setting for doing simple cooking, while sipping a cold glass of prosecco and enjoying the wonderful company and breath taking views.  The reality is that, special moments, are always created with the simplest ingredients and products available. Just some Roasted Tuscan Tomatoes (recipe at the bottom of the post) can go a long way to make a regular afternoon very, very memorable.

Buon Appetito friends!

Views

Table

Table

Tomatoes

Colors

Settings

Details

Matthew and Duncan

Grilled Asparagus

Oven Roasted Tomatoes

Matthew

Florentine Steak

Braised Leeks

Robbi

Carrots

Coffee Time

Times

Casita

Hot Tub

Matthew

Zucchini Flowers

Doggy

Nap Time

Hungry

Light

ROASTED TUSCAN TOMATOES

—-

Roasted Tuscan Tomatoes - Perfect with a nice grilled steak or pork chops

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 8 ripe egg tomatoes, halved lengthways
• 2 tbs olive oil
• Salt & ground black pepper, to taste
• 1/2 tsp caster sugar
• Fresh Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Basil
• 2 cloves of fresh Garlic
• teaspoon of fennel seeds
• Grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1. Preheat grill on medium-high. Lightly grease a grill tray with olive oil or line with foil or non-stick baking paper.
2. Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, on the tray. Brush the cut side of tomatoes with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the caster sugar.
3. Place under preheated grill and cook for 3-4 minutes or until lightly browned. Before serving sprinkle on top a finely chopped mixture of rosemary, sage, basil, fennel seeds, fresh garlic and fresh oregano.  
4. Sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil, grated Parmigiano Reggiano and serve warm or at room temperature.

Growing up you learn that happiness is not related to the big things.

It is not the ‘thing’ that we chase when we are twenty years old and, as gladiators, we fight our way out the fight as winners…

Happiness is not the ‘thing’ that we try to chase believing that love is all or nothing…

It is not  the ‘thing’ of the strong emotions that make the “bang” and explode out with spectacular thunders…

Happiness is not the ‘thing’ of the skyscrapers to scale, of challenges to win and constantly test us.

Growing up you learn that happiness is made of small but precious things …
… And you learn that the smell of coffee in the morning is a little ritual of happiness; you realize that all it takes are the notes of a song, the feelings of a book by the colors that warm the heart.

You realize that you all it takes are the aromas of a kitchen, the poetry of the painters of happiness, the nose and face of your cat or your dog to feel a little happiness.

And you learn that happiness is made up of emotions on your tiptoes, of small explosions that expand the heart, that the start can move your heart and the sun shine your eyes.

And you learn that a field of sunflowers enlighten your face, that the scent of spring wakes you up from winter, and siting down reading in the shade of a tree free and relaxes your mind.

And you learn that love is made of delicate sensations, small sparks in the stomach, close feelings even if too distant; And you learn that time is dilated and that those 5 minutes are precious more than many hours.
And you learn that all you need is to close your eyes to turn on the senses, playing in the kitchen, read a poem, write a book or watch a photo to cancel the time and distance and to be with someone you love.
And you learn that to hear a voice on the phone, receive an unexpected message are small happy moments.
And you learn to have in the drawer and in the heart, small but precious dreams.
And you learn that keeping a child in your arms is a treasurable happiness.
And you learn that the greatest gifts are those that speak about the people you love
And you learn that there is happiness even in the urgency to write down your thoughts, that there’ something happy even in the bitter melancholy.
And you learn that in spite of your defenses,
despite your will or your destiny,
in every gull flying there is the heart of a small-sized
Jonathan Livingston.

And you learn how beautiful and majestic simplicity is.

Gabriele Bertaccini